We just got back from spending a glorious 48 hours in Paris. As an ex-Parisian, returning to the city felt like going back in time. At the same time, we put our limited two days to very good use! Here’s how to make the most of the City of Light in the space of a weekend…
Day 1
12:00 Travel to Paris by Eurostar
Travelling by train to Paris saves an estimated 90% of the carbon emissions that would be spent had you taken a plane. It’s also easier, quicker, and so much less stressful! Rather than arriving at one of the two Paris airports – both located on the outskirts of the city – you arrive in Gare du Nord. This central train station is a perfect gateway into the city, with most Metro lines accessible here. We even scored our tickets in the previous Eurostar sale, spending just £35 each way!
16:00 Check into Hotel Ami
For our stay in Paris, I wanted to stay in my old neighbourhood of Montparnasse. Not only is the area nostalgic, it’s also a lot quieter and cheaper than some of the main tourist hotspots (Montmartre, Saint Michel, etc.) I’ve had some pretty rough experiences staying in Parisian Airbnbs, so we opted for a small, eco-friendly boutique hotel instead: Hotel Ami. This hotel spans six floors, with welcoming hotel staff and your standard amenities. Read my full review →
17:00 Stroll around Paris
For our first afternoon in Paris, we decided to do what the Parisians do: walk. Paris is such a beautiful city, and it’s sweeping roads and tree-lined avenues make it incredibly walkable. We took a stroll from our hotel over to the Tour Eiffel, before finding a bistro for dinner.
19:00 Dine at a Brasserie
Staying with the French theme, we wanted French food for dinner. I’d pinned a few places close to the hotel, and while walking we settled on Le Primerose. Most brasseries in this style will serve traditional French food, although you’re also welcome to sit in or on the roadside for drinks. You’ll observe a lot of French people doing just this, which seems rather alien outside of a pub, but is so much more pleasant when the weather is nice. We had a great meal at Le Primerose, and while relatively expensive (£35pp), the food, drinks, and service was worth it.
21:00 Head out (or head to bed)
At nine o’clock, the night is still young in Paris. We had hoped to attend a jazz show at Le Bal Blomet, but were too late for the 8pm start time. Instead, we decided to wander some more before getting a good rest before our one and only full day in the city.
Day 2
10:00 Rise and shine!
A lay-in is non-negotiable when on holiday, so we started late the next day. Skipping the hotel breakfast, we opted to find our own, heading to Bel Horizon Coffee Roasters for croissants and superb coffees. I took a cold brew; A took a filter coffee. We were very happy with our choices, and wish we’d bought a bag of beans while there!
11:30 La Grande Epicerie
Next stop: La Grande Epicerie. If you’re coming to France to buy French food, save your pennies and splash out at this incredible food hall. While many of the goods can be found scattered across Monoprixs and the like, there’s something so exciting about such decadent ingredients all in the same place. Unfortunately, the UK has placed a restriction on bringing any dairy products back from France for the timebeing, so I skipped the butter and cheese and stockpiled fancy mustard, confiture, compote, honey and tea. Remember to bring a reusable bag – or even better, take a detour to the hotel to drop everything off before the rest of your day.
2:00 Late Lunch in the Marais
Another area I’m particularly nostalgic for in Paris is Le Marais. As a student, I used to run around this area visiting friends and sitting by the Seine, so it makes me happy simply walking the streets here. Fortunately, it’s also a fantastic spot for good food, good coffee, and good vintage fashion! My top recommendations are 46 & 3rd for brunch, Tanat for coffee, and a stroll between Etienne Marcel, République, and Saint Sébastian – Froissart for vintage.
15:00 Get a crêpe (or a glace!)
For your afternoon sugar craving, head to a crêperie (or if it’s hot, a glacerie!) We visited a particularly grimy yet nostalgic crêperie in Saint Michel for ours, but there’s plenty of vendors and shops dotted around. Go for a classic sucre, or my favourite, crème de marrons. And take it to go (à emporter)! There’s nothing better than walking along the cobbles eating a sweet treat.
16:00 Visit a Parisian garden
Between your sugary snack and dinner, walk some more. We toured the Jardin de Luxembourg, where we sat and read books, before strolling down to the river to the Notre Dame, and then sit at the water’s edge on Ile Saint-Louis. Despite being the most expensive area to live in Paris, it’s a surprisingly quiet place, perfect to sit in the sunshine. Other options here include the Jardin de Tuileries, the Louvre, Odéon, or a metro to the Sacre Coeur…
19:00 Dinner
Now, it’s over to you. For your second dinner in Paris, do you go French, or no? We didn’t book anywhere on this trip, but knew a few local restaurants that would have space. If you have a highly-rated restaurant in mind, I really recommend you book in advance to avoid disappointment.
20:45 Jazz, bien sûr
And to end the perfect day in Paris? Jazz, of course. We headed to Caveau des Oubliettes, one of a few establishments we were open to, but whose jazz band most appealed on the day (A jazz band with a saxophone? Yes please). Entry is a very reasonable 10 euros, plus a drink per set. We stayed for two sets, and then ran for the nightbus just before midnight.
Day 3
9:00 Last petit déj
With midday return-tickets for the Eurostar, we got up at a reasonable hour and packed our belongings before a final breakfast in the 15th. This time we settled on Partage Café, a lovely little café with contemporary styling. Aside from the snooty waiter, the food was good (get the granola) and the coffee was great. It was then a 25-minute metro ride to Gare du Nord, and a one-hour wait before boarding.
4 Top Tips for A Short-Stay in Paris
- Download the Bonjour RATP app on your phone ahead of arrival, and buy a few Metro tickets while you’re at it. Then you can tap in, as you would on the Tube. Just note there is a different ticket (and price) for busses!
- Learn a little French to glide through your trip. Knowing how to greet a server or ask for the bill in French goes a long way. You’ll likely be spoken back to in English – the accent is a giveaway – but your effort will be appreciated.
- Walk about – and make new discoveries. Pinning locations on Google Maps is my usual way to plan a trip, but Paris has so many tiny boutiques and cafés that it’s worth trying somewhere you don’t know the TripAdvisor score for.
- Get food to go, and sit outside. Why sit inside a humid little restaurant when you could sit by the Seine, or in one of Paris’ many parks? Get food to go – or even cheaper, food from a supermarket – and get outside. Level up your Parisian know-how and bring a paperback book, too.
Heading to Paris? Let me know if you have any questions below!
