Ugly shoes are in, and tabis are the trailblazer. I’ve been wearing my Woodchuck Sato tabi shoes since the start of this year and wanted to write a review, covering my unboxing, styling, and regular wearing. While I typically maintain a timeless wardrobe, these shoes are both current, and reflective of the fashion industry today – something is off.
Tabi Shoes: A Brief History Lesson On A ‘Weird’ Shoe
Tabi shoes were first made in Japan in the 15th century. The Japanese word ‘tabi’ actually refers to split-toe socks, which are worn with shoes and thongs, like the traditional geta. Tabi shoes were made popular in contemporary fashion by Martin Margiela, aligning with his avant-garde, beauty-in-the-weird aesthetic. For a long time, they signalled ‘fashion literacy’, but tabis have become a mainstream fashion accessory as of late.
For a simple, hoof-like shoe, tabis say a lot. Personally, I enjoy the weird edge they give to my typical feminine outfits. At first, I thought this shoe would simply replace my previous black ballerinas, which are falling apart now. But over time, I’ve come to find myself feeling something is off in the fashion space, and more acutely, the sustainable fashion space I frequent. A lot of fashion designers have reflected the uneasy political climate in their collections this year, but I also feel the sustainable fashion space is slipping. What was once full of vibrant, exciting, circular ventures has retreated into a more conservative, less auspicious, marketplace.
My Woodchuck Sato Tabi Shoes, Reviewed
I have a small shoe collection and I advocate buying from small, independent brands where you can. This is especially true for shoes: I’ve found my best, long-lasting pairs are made by traditional shoemakers like Grenson and Jonak. For tabi shoes, Woodchuck Sato comes highly rated. They are an independent, small shoemaker based in Singapore, making split-toe shoes as their speciality. You can see behind the scenes and learn more about their story on their website.
From their site, I chose the Tabi Heeled Pumps with Bow. I like how my legs look in heeled shoes, but I also wanted a pair I could wear everyday and walk in easily; these seemed like a good trade-off. Delivery took a few weeks, which is to be expected for handmade shoes shipped half-way round the world. On arrival, I was pleasantly surprised at how well boxed the shoes were, with their own dust bags, and even complementary a pair of tabi socks.
However, when I tried them on, I realised the shoe was a half-size too big. What happened?
Help! My Tabi Shoes Are Too Big
I’m a typical UK Size 5 or EU 38. I had ordered my tabi shoes accordingly, but when I tried them on, the backs slipped off with every step. I flushed hot and cold – there was no way I was sending these shoes back around the globe to be replaced.
Caring for your clothes means making alterations, so I got to work making these shoes fit. I’d had problems with a pair of vintage sling-backs a few years ago, but heel grips weren’t going to cut it here. Nor were the tabi socks. Really, I needed insoles. While tabi shoes and tabi socks might be popular, tabi insoles tend to be reserved for orthopedic shoes…
In a spare shoebox, I found a pair of foam insoles and got to work. Insoles are meant to be cut to size, so I simply had to cut these down to Size 5, with a split in the toe. The secret was to do it gradually – start too big, sketch a draft outline, and keep trying in the shoe until you get the right fit. It took a little while, but I managed to make two tabi insoles. Amazingly, the insoles have held up ever since!
After making my custom-made insoles, I’ve found these shoes have performed well. They’re really beautifully made, with soft leather that holds its shape well, and thick rubber soles that give good grip. I enjoy how they feel – the toe splitter isn’t overstimulating. I can wear my pair on a normal day walking around Brighton or commuting into London, and it does indeed give a weird edge to my outfits.
My Rating: 8/10
Overall, I rate my Woodchuck Sato tabis. They’re well made and comfortable. They look cute if a bit odd. However, they lose marks for the sizing. I’d recommend sizing down, so you don’t need to make your own insoles. Finally: these shoes signify where I’m at with fashion right now: in a weird place.
What do you think of tabis? Let me know below.
