The What Fuels Fashion? Report

Fashion Revolution has published their annual report! Unlike past years, this time the report is less of a general Transparency Index, and more focused on climate and energy-related data; on what’s fuelling fashion. It’s quite literally an exposé on fossil fuels, fashion, and how transparent the world’s 250 largest fashion brands are about their impact on people and planet. Read the report here →

The report is long – 128 pages long – and after rifling through it, I’ve found myself scribbling down new statistics that have quite literally shocked me. I really should be used to this by now, shouldn’t I? But fashion has a fantastic way of distracting us with beautiful designs set upon beautiful people, while round the back their exploitation is rampant.

The What Fuels Fashion? Report: Key Findings

As always, I’m in awe of the work that the Fashion Revolution team does. This year, they’ve not only reported on the state of the fashion industry, but also brought to light the importance of decarbonisation, degrowth, and a just transition away from this highly impactful, future-risking industry.

After reading through the report, here’s what stood out to me:

1. Fashion Remains Inherently Linked With Fossil Fuels

Right off the bat, Fashion Revolution is quite up-front about fashion’s connection with fossil fuels: fashion remains one of the most polluting industries with fossil fuels burned at every stage of production.

Considering more than 60% of the world’s fibre basket is made up of synthetic fibres derived from oil, this tracks. However, did you know that fossil fuels power fashion’s supply chains, from raw material extraction through to keeping the lights on at HQ? And much of it is linked to coal, the dirtiest fossil fuel of them all.

2. Fashion Needs To Make Four Changes – Now

According to Fashion Revolution’s #WhatFuelsFashion Report, fashion is not doing enough to meet climate targets. They suggest that the fashion industry would make significant progress in reducing greenhouse gas emissions by:

1. Transitioning fashion supply chains from fossil fuels to renewable energy,
2. Producing fewer clothes,
3. Minimising the use of air freight, and
4. Phasing out synthetic materials.

3. Fashion Is Dragging Its Feet On Decarbonisation

Let’s start by looking at decarbonisation; the process of reducing a brand’s carbon emissions until they reach net zero.

Currently, only 117 of the world’s largest 250 fashion brands have decarbonisation targets. Worse; only 105 disclose their progress against these targets. Worse still; only 56 report emissions reductions. Worst of all; 7 disclose increases in Scope 1 & 2 emissions, while 42 brands disclose increases in Scope 3 emissions.

These statistics all indicate just how slow fashion is progressing towards a more climate-positive future – and in some cases, going backwards.

4. Fashion Needs To Prioritise Scope 3 Emissions

Next, let’s look at scoped emissions. Each scope refers to how directly linked a brand is to its emissions:

Scope 1: Direct emissions from brands’ own facilities, such as offices, warehouses, and vehicles.

Scope 2: Indirect emissions from brands’ purchased energy sources, such as electricity, heating, cooling.

Scope 3: Emissions produced by activities that are not directly owned by the brand, such as material production, raw material extraction, raw material processing, and product assembly.

It’s important to note that Scope 3 emissions make up 96% of fashion supply chains. This is shockingly large, especially when 70% of fashion brands are priding themselves on reporting on their Scope 1 & 2 emissions, when only 56% do so for Scope 3.

Put bluntly: fashion brands proudly reporting Scope 1 & 2 emissions reductions are missing the bigger picture.

Not only that: Scope 3 emissions are still increasing.

5. Fashion Is Failing To Make A Just Transition

There are further dirty details in the #WhatFuelsFashion report that together, begin to show just how far away the fashion industry is from making a just transition. Having attended the British Fashion Council’s Institute of Positive Fashion Forum, and Global Fashion Agenda’s Global Fashion Summit this year, it would be easy to believe otherwise. But this report lays it all bare:

• 60 brands scored 0% in relation to decarbonisation.
• Only 4 brands – ASICS, H&M, Marks & Spencer, and Patagonia – disclose emissions reduction targets that meet standards set by the UN.
• The textile sector was the third largest source of water degradation and land use in 2020.
• 89% of the world’s 250 biggest brands do not disclose the number of clothes they make each year.
• In the UK, 300,000 tonnes of clothing is donated to charity annually, and it’s estimated that 80% of that is incinerated.
• Only 1% of the world’s largest fashion brands – Superdry and United Colors of Benetton – disclose a commitment to degrowth.
• Clothing sales are predicted to reach 160 million tonnes by 2050 – over three times today’s amount.
• Just 3% of major fashion brands disclose their efforts to financially compensate workers affected by the impacts of the climate crisis.

6. 32 Fashion Brands Scored 0% In The What Fuels Fashion? Report

Finally, it’s time to name and shame. I’ve been surprised by some of the brands ranking highly in this report, and I have my own personal thoughts about each’s sustainability standards. This year, the brands that topped the list were Puma (75%), Gucci (74%), H&M (61%), Champion (58%) and Hanes (58%). However, I’ve often been surprised at the top rated brands in previous Fashion Transparency Indexes. Last year OVS, Gucci, Target, Kmart, and United Colors of Benetton made the top spot, yet they are still are getting B-grade scores, and it’s important to remember that these grades only exist in a classroom filled with the world’s 250 largest fashion brands as classmates.

In the #WhatFuelsFashion Report, 32 fashion brands scored 0% in their efforts to disclose climate and energy-related data. These are real failings, for people and planet, and I hope these brands are judged harshly for it.

In fact, many of the brands shown here are the same offenders scoring low on previous Transparency Indexes. Many are fast fashion, but brands like DKNY, Longchamp, Max Mara, Tom Ford, and Tory Burch are proving that luxury fashion isn’t inherently sustainable. But they do prove it is inherently shady, exploitative, and deeply linked with fossil fuels. The question is: will they ever be able to bring themselves in line with sustainable development goals? Or should they simply no longer exist?

How To Act On The What Fuels Fashion? Report

The findings of the What Fuels Fashion? report are pretty bleak. As someone whose heritage is tied to an oil-producing nation ravaged by war, I feel very strongly about fashion – and industry generally – moving away from fossil fuels. And this report builds on previous research too – check out Fossil Fashion Report by Changing Markets Foundation, and the Fossil Fuel Fashion Campaign by Eco-Age.

So, how do we make a change? As a start, Fashion Revolution is asking fashion brands to commit to investing at least 2% of their profits into a clean, fair, and just energy transition.

You can help power that change by sharing social media resources, sending emails to fashion brands, telling brands #DontBeFuelish. Every communication is important, especially when it comes from customers – so please write to the brands you shop with, and comment on their social media posts!

What are your thoughts on the findings in the What Fuels Fashion? report?

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